Business Growth Plan For Embroiderers

2 year business growth plan for Embroiderers.

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Business Resource - Monthly Cash Flow Projections

Information for calculating monthly cash flow. Includes instructions and a spreadsheet. Both files are in a zipped folder.

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Logo's To Go - A Guide To Mobile Embroidery

Handout from Jimmy Lamb's Mobile Embroidery Seminar, entitled "Logo's to Go."

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Seminar Handout - How Do I Get Customers?

Handout from Jimmy Lamb's "How Do I Get Customers?" Seminar. This ZIPPED file contains multiple documents.

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Seminar Handout - What Do I Charge?

Handout from Jimmy Lamb's "What Do I Charge?" Seminar. This ZIPPED file contains a handout and a spreadsheet. Updated 8/7/2006.

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Thread Tensions

Instructions for setting upper and lower thread tensions on Tajima machines.

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Cap Embroidery Basics

Detailed Application Instructions

Caps offer the opportunity for several design placements. Obviously the front is the most common location, but backs are quite popular as well. However, sewing on the back can be much more challenging that sewing on the front. The primary difficulty is the limited space available for sewing. This is further complicated by adjustment strap, as it too limits the sewing area and makes it difficult to firmly grasp the cap in a frame or hoop. Typically embroidery on the back of a cap is limited to one line of text, which is usually arced around the opening in the rear of the cap. (The opening is sometimes referred to as the “keyhole".) However, the shape and size of the opening varies between different styles and brands of caps. Furthermore, most keyholes are NOT a true arc. In addition, the shape is altered depending upon how the strap is adjusted. Thus, programming a simple line of text becomes a somewhat complex task.

STEP 1:METHOD #1 - Tubular Hoop

Many Embroiderers use a 12cm tubular hoop (part# 100575 or 100576 at the Hirsch Online Store) to frame the back of a cap. Since this is a standard hoop for most machines, it's a simple solution. However, there are some drawbacks to this method.

If you have to run a lot of cap backs, this method of hooping can be quite slow and labor intensive, especially for multi-head machines where it is critical that each back be hooped exactly the same. In addition, the sewing area itself is quite limited, simply because of the hoop size. Also, its important that the cap strap is not hooped, which means the bottom edge of the hoop must be above the top edge of the strap. This in turn forces, the widest portion of the hoop to be in alignment with the top of the keyhole. The end result is that you cannot embroider very far down either side of the keyhole

STEP 2:METHOD #2 - Clamping System

The Hoop Tech clamping system is a quick and easy way to hoop the back of a cap. There is a specific clamp window (part #107209) created for this purpose that is an option for the TSC-1 base (part #107205). Some of the other general purpose clamp windows may work as well.

The advantage of a clamp over a tubular hoop is that it is faster and easier to use. In addition, since the “gripping power" of the clamp window is much stronger that that of a hoop, the cap strap can be captured in the hoped area without adverse effects, which in turn will allow you to hoop lower on the cap back, thus giving you a larger sew area.

HoopTech Clamps can be found at the Hirsch Online Store

STEP 3:METHOD #3 - Semi Wide Cap Frame

Another great method is to use a semi-wide cap frame (103365). Most machines come with a wide (270 degree) cap frame, but not a semi-wide cap frame. It has to be ordered separately.

This was the standard cap frame for many years, before the wide cap frame was developed. It sandwiches the cap between two rectangular windows, rather than gripping it with one strap and clips. The window width is about 7" with the height being variable from 2.5" to 3.5". This provides a larger sewing area than either a tubular hoop or a clamping system.

But perhaps the most significant fact, is that the semi-wide cap frame is curved, as is the cap, so there is less distortion of the fabric when hooping, ensuring the highest quality of sewing over the largest area.

In addition, the semi-wide cap frame fits the same cap driver as the wide cap frame, so there is no need to reconfigure the machine when switching from cap fronts to backs.

NOTE: All of the framing options discussed here are available at the Hirsch Online Store

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Creating a Portfolio

Detailed Application Instructions

Developing a portfolio of your work is a must! It allows your customer to see the quality of your embroidery. It also allows you to show-off some of your existing accounts. “Name-dropping" can be effective when promoting your business. If you do the work for a well-known company in your area, then by all means display that work to others. When they see a recognizable name in your portfolio, their perception of your business will generally rise a notch or two. Another advantage of a portfolio is to give customers logo ideas. Many times a new business owner will not have an “official" logo. Looking at existing designs is a great way to stimulate his/her creative process. Of course, be careful that they don't try to duplicate someone else's logo, since this would probably be a copyright infringement. The third benefit of a design portfolio is to allow customers to view actual sew-outs, not just pictures. Embroidery is unique in the fact that it is three-dimensional. Many times, people like to touch and feel the texture of the stitches. This is something that can't be done with screen-printing. NOTE: Portfolios are also a great way to display stock designs.

STEP 1:Create The Swatches

Sew out the logo on felt. Felt is preferred as it gives a nice clean finish to the embroidery. In addition, you want your swatches to be consistent in appearance, so do NOT use a variety of fabrics - stick with the one type.

Using either pinking shears, or a rotary cutter, cut out each sample in a uniform manner. They should all be cut to the same dimensions, such as 3" X 5". Create a rectangular template, so that you can trace it on the back of the swatch, then cut it out following the outlines.

STEP 2:Create The Portfolio Notebook

Purchase a heavy-duty three ring binder.

Purchase heavy-duty photo albums that have clear pages with 3" X 5" pockets. Ultra-Pro offers a wide variety of heavy-duty photographic page holders. They can be found in local department stores and the internet.

IconUSA.com is an online source for Ultra Pro Products. (Tajima Sales & Support does not endorse or guarantee their products or services.)

For larger designs, use three ring sheet protectors found at Office Supply stores. They come standard in an 8 ½" x 11" size and can also be found in larger sizes, though a larger notebook will be required.

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Handbag 3-Letter Monogram

Detailed Application Instructions

Personalized hand-bags are an extremely popular application for embroidery. And because it's considered a high-end product, the markups for this type of work are typically quite high. The challenge with monogramming a handbag is hoping, as many bags are made of materials that are too thick to get a proper grip with a standard hoop. In addition, the available space for embroidery may be quite small.

STEP 1:Determine Where To Place The Monogram

The first step is to determine where the Monogram can be placed. Discuss with the customer what their preference is. Carefully examine the area for any hidden obstructions such as straps, pockets, zippers, snaps, buttons, etc. Once you have identified a clear area for sewing, you can determine the boundaries of the sewing space, which in turn will define the size limitations for the monogram.

For a small to medium size handbag, the typical size is 2.5" to 3.0" in height with a total width not more than 5.0".

STEP 2:Determine The Monogram Style

There are two common styles of Monograms - 1 Letter and 3 Letter.

With the 1 Letter Style, the monogram is typically a person's last initial and is usually in a script style of font.

Traditional 3 Letter Monogram layout is: FIRST INITIAL - LAST INITIAL - MIDDLE INITIAL. The center letter is usually taller than the two outer letters, typically by 50%.

Alternative 3 Letter Monogram layout is: HUSBAND'S FIRST INITIAL - COUPLE'S LAST INITIAL - WIFE'S FIRST INITIAL. The center letter is usually taller than the two outer letters, typically by 50%.

STEP 3:Setup The Monogram

In this example, the Monogram was created using Tajima DG/ML Software By Pulse. The following property settings were used:

Font: Diana Script
Height: 2.5"
Pull Comp: 100%
Underlay: Perpendicular & Zig-Zag
Letter Width Compression: 80%
Total Width: 5.0" (The Text Box was manually adjusted.)

Your actual settings will be determined by the style of Font and the type of Fabric.

STEP 4:Hoop And Sew The Bag

For a hand-bag, there is no better method of hooping than to use a Clamping System such as the one manufactured by Hoop Tech. In this example the TSC-2 base with a 7.5" x 6.0" window was used. For lightweight cotton hand-bags you may be able to use tubular hoop, but for the thicker fabrics, and for materials such as nylon, leather and cordura, a standard hoop will generally not be reliable. A Window Frame system, such as Hoop Tech's 7 In 1 system can be used as well, though a clamp is much easier to work with. (For more information about the Hoop Tech Clamping System or Window Frame System, visit the Hirsch Online Store.)

Backing will be chosen based on the fabric. A hand-bag made of a stable woven fabric or leather, will generally need only a lightweight tear-away or in many cases none at all. A Topping will only be used for fabrics that are textured.

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Patches and Emblems

Detailed Application Instructions

Patches or emblems can be an excellent profit center for a small embroidery shop. Most companies that specialize in this product are quite large and require minimum quantities in the range of 100 pieces or more. However there are many customers looking for small quantities in the 5-24 piece range, who are not being serviced. You can take advantage of this, by offering small runs of custom emblems. The process is quite simple and can be used to embroider virtually any emblem of any shape or size. It is designed for using finished blank emblems, meaning emblems that have already been made and are awaiting embellishment. They are readily attainable from vendors who specialize in this product. The production process used by Companies that specialize in making patches from scratch involves special tools and processes that are not readily available to the average Embroidery Shop. The process begins with cutting out the fabric to be used to form the patch. (The most common fabric is twill.) This is done using specialty cutting machines such as die-cutters or lasers. Then a merrowed edge is applied (looks like a satin border, but is not) using a merrow machine. Depending upon the sophistication of the operation, embroidery is applied either before the cutting or after the patch is finished. However, in many cases the patches are sold “blank" and are referred to as “finished blanks." Unless you are going into patch production as a full-time endeavor, there is no need for you to invest in expensive and elaborate production systems. There are some simple methods that any Embroiderer can use. We will discuss the first technique here. The embroidery process involves hooping a piece of adhesive backing with the adhesive side up. The machine will be programmed to sew an outline that is the same size as the emblem and then stop. This outline serves as a template for applying the emblem. The emblem will be pressed firmly onto the adhesive backing using the template as a guide. Upon restarting, the machine, will embroider the actual design onto the emblem. This is a very simple method that ensures that the design is centered in the emblem each and every time, with no measuring required. This can be used for one patch or many patches.

STEP 1:Create An Emblem Template File

Scan the emblem to be used. Digitize a running stitch around the outside edge of the scanned image. Be sure that the segment starts and stops at the TOP of the emblem. Save for use as an Emblem Template.

STEP 2:Create a Single Emblem File

Create a new file and bring in the Emblem Template File, created in Step 1. Merge/Paste/Create the desired logo and/or add lettering where you wish it to sew within the emblem. Ensure that the lettering or design has a color change at the beginning. Save this as a Single Emblem File.

STEP 3:Create a Multiple Emblem File (Optional)

For runs of more than one emblem, you can sew multiple emblems in one hoop. Choose a large hoop and determine how many emblems can be placed inside of it, without touching each other or the hoop. Create a new file and plot the location for each emblem. Use the copy function to place the Single Emblem in each of the plotted positions. Save this as s Multiple Emblem File.

TIP - Pulse users can display actual hoops on screen and use these images to help plot the multiple emblem locations.

TIP - If using a contract digitizer, have him set up some Outline files of basic emblem shapes for you. Then you can re-size them as necessary to create your own emblem templates. Thus, when you are doing just basic names, you can set them up yourself, using the MERGE function.

STEP 4:Sew The Outline Stitches

Choose a hoop large enough for the job and hoop a piece of adhesive backing with the "sticky" side up. (Peel N Sitck Backing is available at the Hirsch Online Storepart numbers 108062, 108063, 108064, 108065.)

As an alternative, you can use a heavy tearaway backing combined with a Spray Adhesive, both of which can be found at the Hirsch Online Store.

If you are running multiple emblems in the same hoop, program your machine to stop after it sews each outline running stitch.

Start the machine and it should sew the outline running stitch and then stop.

STEP 5:Apply The Emblem

Place the blank emblem down onto the adhesive backing using the outline running stitch as a template.

STEP 6:Apply The Final Embroidery

Restart the machine and it should sew the entire logo and then move back to the center of the design.

STEP 7:Running Multiple Patches

If sewing multiple emblems the machine should automatically move to the next emblem location, sew an outline running stitch and then stop. You will place the second emblem. Upon restarting the machine, it will complete the sewing process and move to the next location. This process continues until you have sewn all of the emblems that you setup for that hoop. When finished, simply unhoop and tear off the backing. You will notice that the outline running stitch does not attach itself to the emblem, it just goes with the excess backing.

NOTE: When sewing multiple emblems, do not attempt to remove any emblem from the adhesive backing until ALL emblems have been sewn.

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Trimming Excess Backing

Detailed Application Instructions

There is nothing worse than to finish an important job with no flaws, then cut a hole in the fabric while trimming away the excess backing. While trimming may sound like a small detail, it can suddenly become a major issue if the garment is damaged and you have to pay to replace it.

STEP 1:Grasp The Garment Properly

Turn the garment inside out and grasp the edge of the backing, allowing the garment to hang suspended below. This ensures that the scissors will not make accidental contact with the fabric.

STEP 2:Slide The Scissors, Don't Cut

Carefully SLIDE the scissors along the edge of the design, slicing off the excess backing. The garment will drop when you complete the trimming, so be sure to have it suspended over a clean surface.

STEP 3:Avoid Dull Scissors

If the sliding action does not slice the backing, then the scissors are too dull and need to be replaced or sharpened.

There are several excellent styles of scissors at the Hirsch Online Store. 106022, 105985 and 105975 are very popular models for cutting away excess backing.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 1A - TEHX Machine

Chapter 1A of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. TEHX Machine Operations.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 1B - NEO Machine

Chapter 1B of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. NEO Machine Operations.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 1C - TFMX Machine

Chapter 1C of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. TFMX Machine Operations.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 2 - Hooping

Chapter 2 of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. The hooping process.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 3 - Version 11 Software - Scribe

Chapter 3 of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. Version 10 Software - Scribe.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 4 - Work Order Processing

Chapter 4 of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. Processing embroidery work orders.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 4A - Work Order Exercises

Chapter 4A of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. Exercises related to processing embroidery work orders.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 5 - Version 10 Software - Editor Plus

Chapter 5 of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. Version 10 Software - Editor Plus.

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Training Class Manual - Chapter 5 - Version 10 Software - Illustrator & Artist +

hapter 6 of the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training Manual. Version 10 Software - Illustrator and Artist Plus.

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Training Class Manual - Embroidery Design Files

Embroidery design files and images that are used in the Tajima Sales & Support Classroom Training program. The files are contained in a Zipped Folder.

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Training Instructions - Needle Use & Selection

Information about the different styles and types of needles used for embroidery. Includes a needle application chart.

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Training Instructions - Threads

Information about different types of embroidery threads.

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